In celebration of the collaboration between the two Danish brands A. Roege Hove and Georg Jensen, Odalisque interviewed Amalie Røge Hove, founder of A. Roege Hove, and Ragnar Hjartarson, creative director at Georg Jensen. Additionally, our team of editors interpret the collection through imagery shot on one of the last summer evenings of the season.
The Small-scale Sculptural: A. Roege Hove
In 2019, Amalie Røge Hove founded her namesake brand following several years as knitwear designer for Cecilie Bahnsen and Mark Tan and was awarded the prestigious Karl Lagerfeld Award for Innovation at the International Woolmark Prize earlier this year. In conversation with Linnéa Ruiz Mutikainen, Røge Hove put words to her creative core, known for freely mixing traditional with progressive.
LINNÉA RUIZ MUTIKAINEN: How did A. Roege Hove’s journey commence in the first place?
AMALIE RØGE HOVE: It was a spark of an idea combined with the simple thrill of knitting. There was no fully fledged reality. Our products, from vision to reality, have come on leaps and bounds. It is incredible to see how far we have come.
LRM: Your inaugural collection did only consist of accessories. Why did you decide to branch out?
ARH: I sensed that these artistic experiments had the potential to blossom into something bigger. That is when I decided to dive into ready-to-wear. While bags are fantastic, they are static. Clothes have the ability to layer and flow, to create a symphony of expression. I yearned for that dimension of movement and interaction in A. Roege Hove’s pieces.
LRM: The same collection is described as “a study of small-scale sculpturalism” on your website. Is sculpturalism still core to your practice today?
ARH: The foundation of sculpturalism is deeply embedded in our work. Craft is more than just a technique to me, there is an emphasis on craft in everything that I do. It is a pathway to pushing boundaries, focusing on how aesthetics and tactile sensation intertwine. We want clothing to be approached just like art, with reverence for the thought, intention, and skill behind each piece.
LRM: Your work is experimental yet based on traditional knitwear practice. How did this aesthetic come to be?
ARH: Our aesthetic did not happen overnight. It stems from a blend of traditional practice and experimentation. The journey has been fueled by a passion for innovation, but also profound appreciation for original craftsmanship and its artistry.
LRM: Is knitwear an obsession for you?
ARH: It’s equal parts obsession as it is a specialty. From the get-go, I envisioned A. Roege Hove as a conceptual knitwear brand, destined to challenge the norms with a continuous modern twist. We focus on what we do the best, which is crafting garments in revolutionary silhouettes, made from groundbreaking materials.
LRM: What inspires you?
ARH: Japanese paper artists carry a special place in my heart. To me, their meticulous artistry has a unique way of transcending boundaries. Martin Margiela’s avantgarde spirit plays a pivotal role in shaping my creative process as well. Then there is my enduring fascination with Sci Fi films. The way they envision the future intrigues me, it is a realm where imagination truly takes flight.
LRM: I imagine that opting for knitwear only could be perceived as quite niche, maybe even limiting in today’s fashion landscape.
ARH: It has its challenges. But that is what makes our brand stand out. Our approach to knitwear is not just to craft garments; we want to redefine the boundaries of what knitwear can be. While it may seem limiting, I have learned that running a brand is not about building entire wardrobes. You have to specialize in something, develop an exceptional skill, and create undeniable value in that product.
LRM: There is a collaboration with Danish jeweler Georg Jensen. Why did you decide to merge knitwear with jewelry?
ARH: It came to me naturally. We had experimented, explored new possibilities, and realized that this collaboration would not only challenge our designs. It would also allow us to infuse fresh, daring ideas into our work. Georg Jensen’s reputation of crafting quality products that last for a lifetime resonated with our brand ethos. It is an exciting merge of two worlds.
Written by Linnéa Ruiz Mutikainen
The Inventor of Classics: Georg Jensen
An interview with Ragnar Hjartarson, creative director of Georg Jensen, the classic brand that started in 1904 and still reinvents itself through new visions and striking collaborations.
ULRIKA LINDQVIST: Georg Jensen is a brand with notable heritage. How has your journey at Georg Jensen been and how would you best describe the brand?
RAGNAR HJARTARSON: Georg Jensen is a leading Danish brand with more than 119 years of history. Collaborating with different designers is an essential part of how we approach design. We have worked with forerunner designers, including Verner Panton and David Thulstrup for our hollowware, most recently fashion designer Stine Goya for jewellery. Collaborations challenge our designs and allow us to bring in fresh, daring ideas into our work. The collaboration with A. Roege Hove is no different.
UL: Tell us about the classic moonlight grapes collection. How does Amalie’s version differ from it?
RH: The original Moonlight Grapes collection was inspired by some of the silversmith’s earliest hollowware designs. These were adorned with intricate grape-shaped ornaments. At the same time, the silver beads add a sense of transformity to the jewelry. So this collaboration represents a specific take on a collection that will forever evolve.
A key element for the collection was the power to constantly reinvent itself, which the new collection is a perfect example of as well. By merging our heritage collection with Amalie’s forward thinking approach, we see a distinct meet between two crafts: our century-long metalwork expertise and A. Roege Hove’s expert knitting skills. It translates into a unique design. It seamlessly combines two languages. Georg Jensen’s bold and organic silver beads and the strict and linear knitwear of A. Roege Hove.
UL: What inspired this collection?
RH: This collection was also inspired by some of the silversmith’s earliest hollowware designs, which were adorned with intricate grape-shape ornaments. At the same time, the silver beads add a sense of transformity to the jewelry. So this collaboration represents a specific take on a collection that will forever evolve.
UL: Please describe A.Roege Hove and the thought behind the collaboration?
RH: Amalie is a talented knitwear designer. Her brand has become very successful in creating conceptual, trailblazing designs that challenge the norm. For us it was about revisiting and reinterpreting one of our historic collections through a new perspective.
UL: Any personal favorites from the collection?
RH: My favorite piece is the brooch, for its fluid form and the way it elevates every outfit. I wear it myself.
UL: What lies ahead for Georg Jensen?
RH: Continue to build the future of our 119 years of unique design and craftsmanship.