• Book Cover Mats Gustafson

    An interview with Ingrid Giertz-Mårtenson

    Written by Filippa Gustafsson by Sandra Myhrberg

    Male fashion. History and culture have left their mark on the phenomenon. The result has landed in a market overshadowed by fashion marketed towards women. The book publisher Lagenskiölds published Male Fashion - An Unknown History at the beginning of November. Fashion historian Ingrid Giertz-Mårtenson has gathered some of the world's foremost writers and researchers on the subject and created this comprehensive book on men's fashion spanning from the 16th century to the present day.

    Manligt Mode - an unknown history gives a picture of what has happened in men's fashion in recent centuries: how phenomena such as 16th-century court costumes, the well-dressed dandy, music, and sports references, and gender issues made a lasting impression on the fashion picture. It also includes texts on timeless trends such as denim, black and the Ivy League, and lists brands and people who have been particularly important to men's fashion in recent decades. The purpose of the book is for men's clothing to become as well known and discussed as women's. Apart from being the lead author, Giertz-Mårtenson has written the foreword and two additional chapters: “Ruler of the impermanent. The esthetes Robert de Montesquiou” and “Henry Poole & Co and Savile Row. An insight into English tailoring history”.

    My earliest memory of learning about men's fashion history was in an early course at university called the human and the material, where we read an anthology on physical environments and their impact on us during the last hundred years. One chapter was called “Father in the Window”. The chapter was about how a physical environment described and changed the social through commerciality and norms. The new modern man stood in the shop window and beckoned, clothed in materiality, paternal love, and exuding hegemonic masculinity. This was the first time the man was presented as someone commercial, and with that also followed a long list of new standards.

    One of these was the holiday of Father's Day when the spotlight on consumption was directed only at the father, and he was celebrated with tobacco, socks, and slippers. The dilemma that arose was that it was his money that was being traded, which for many was perceived as hypocrisy. This was naturally rooted in a patriarchal structure, where women rarely had an income of their own. I found it very interesting, but it was only a small piece of history from Sweden about one hundred years ago. This is why the interview with Ingrid Giertz-Mårtenson is both exciting and right on time. Connecting two of the most interesting subjects out there, fashion and history, can't go wrong.

    How did you get the inspiration for this book?
    I have always been interested in fashion as an expression of culture; interested in why we dress the way we do, how we are affected by the clothes we wear and the styles we see around us and what ‘fashion’ actually entails. Throughout my professional life, I have been active in various areas of the fashion industry, both in Sweden and internationally. But it has always – or almost always – been about women’s fashion. This appears so obvious, one hardly sees a reason to question it. Today, the parts of the fashion industry catering to women represent around sixty-five percent of the international clothing market, with the remainder divided into almost equal parts between men’s and children’s clothing. Academic literature primarily focuses on fashion for women, and media output on fashion generally refers to womenswear.
    In short, the term fashion seems to have a tendency of being automatically identified with women’s fashion. And yet men make up half of the world's population! The result of a survey I conducted showed also that the knowledge of the average man about the history of men´s fashion was very limited. That's why I decided to publish this book.

    Why do you think the interest in examining the male side of a historically and culturally female scene is coming right now?
    For decades books and exhibitions on the history of Fashion have 90% dealt with women´s fashion. I believe many fashion historians, like me, felt that there is now a need for information regarding the history of men's fashion. So many things have changed in our understanding of masculinity during the last decades. One example of this is the important and very successful exhibition Fashiniong Masculinities: The Art of Menswear that took place at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London this year.

    Is there anything in men’s fashion history that stands out from other developments in fashion and trends?
    The history of The Suit is fascinating: one of the authors in the book, museum director and cultural historian Christopher Breward, takes the reader on a personal journey inspired by the seventeen suits he keeps in his wardrobe – garments imbued with memories, experiences, and fashion history stretching back through the centuries. The suit is an enduring constant in menswear; its significance testifies to the fact that men’s clothing and fashion have inspired women’s fashion entirely differently than vice versa.

    Do you have a personal favorite era of men’s fashion? Something that might have inspired certain chapters in the book?
    Few periods have seen such a significant shift in our perception of manliness and men’s fashion in the most recent decades. Choosing to focus on the male body, many contemporary designers have presented a different, softer view of masculinity. Traditionally masculine garments have been replaced by more fluid styles featuring alternative materials and designs.

    The construction of ‘male’ and ‘female’ has become more flexible, and the ongoing process of LGBTQ+ emancipation allows the boundaries between the sexes to become more and more actively questioned. Masculinity today encompasses an entirely different palette of fashion elements, all of which are connected to the continuing evolution of society and discussions around norms, ethnicity, and body shape. At the same time, well-established, traditional items of clothing such as sports-, outdoor- and functional wear have continued to have great success, while classic, expertly tailored men’s garments have gained a new and affluent clientele.

    What kind of imprint do you want this book to leave on the reader?
    This book does not claim to tell the complete story of men’s fashion. This would be impossible and is not our intention. Its purpose is rather to shed light on the ‘untold story’. For too long, the history of men’s fashion has been hidden behind the hypervisible forms and evolution of women’s fashion, justified by the claim that a male interest in fashion could not
    be combined with proper masculinity because fashion was female fashion.
    What I hope above all is that this book will be the beginning of a deepened discourse about men’s fashion and masculinity and clothing; that other books will be written on the subject, that the media will pay attention to it and that the subject will be discussed in a serious and forward-looking way.

    portrait of Ingrid by Beata Holmgren
  •                                                              jacket Remake 
                                                                         lace Hope 
                                                             shoes Stina Rand 

    An Interview with Miynt

    Written by Decirée Josefsson by Oskar Borin

    Miynt’s Fredrika Ribbing believes in the purity of interpretation where she allows her music to be translated into a unique experience filled with magical substance. As a listener you get to experience a liberated sound, where the music described by the artist herself is similar to a life without routines. The pure feeling of the moment acts as the guiding light. Her musicality and artistry is organic, confident and joyful which mirrors her work. Let the melodies create an endless soundscape of wander in a summer hazer together with Miynt.

    How come music as an art form has interested you?
    I’ve always been drawn to music and it’s always been around at my house growing up. My dad is a big consumer of music and I tuned into that as well. He is a big David Bowie fan and that made me a big Bowie-fan too.

    Can you hear and sense any differences in your songwriting when you look back at your journey?
    I think that there is a difference skill-whise, for the simple reason that I know more now. But when it comes to melodies and what sounds I’m drawn too, it’s kind of the same. The biggest reason is how I feel about the project. In the beginning I thought that Miynt needed to represent the whole me musically, which is a lot of pressure to put on a project and especially when you are going to release your first song. I think I’ve managed to change that perspective and today I view my music more as an extended version of myself that can sound in a lot of different ways.

    What made you let go of the mind ghost and be able to start releasing music on your own?
    When I lived in London I used to go for long walks in Victoria Park comparing my demos to some of the worst songs I could think of. While listening to these songs it gave me some sort of kick like “damn maybe I can make music after all”. When I moved back to Sweden I shared my music with a friend for the first time and that really helped me gain the confidence to view it more like something real. To get that first positive response was really important.

    What advice would you give your younger self?
    I used to have this idea that I couldn’t sing, and it took a while for me to understand my own voice. I would tell myself to stay focused on making music rather than analyze it. And to stay calm and trust the process of time.

    In our time people tend to highly value external affirmation, could you describe your relationship towards that?
    It’s kind of a weird thing to relate to and I’ve been thinking about that quite a lot.
    I think for me personally, writing music is so attached to the joy and love for that specific process. To create something out of nothing is the most exciting thing there is. That is the foundation of why I even started making music in the first place, but when you seem to get more likes from a selfie rather than a post about releasing new music, it makes you a bit confused. I really don’t have an answer on how to relate to it. The value can’t be in the response. I guess they can co-exist as long as the like- culture doesn't interfere too much with the creative process.

    How do you keep yourself grounded?
    I try to have some sort of balance, it’s an ongoing project. But in general I try to fit in some nature and some friends and family. I take a lot of long walks and that’s been kind of the way I clear my head.

    Do you consider it important to tell the listeners about the meaning of your songs or can the music sometimes speak for itself?
    I don’t really feel any need to control how others are going to comprehend my music and I’m not a big fan of talking about the story of my music in general. I think that it’s amazing when a song can live on and be translated into a new history with a different meaning for that specific listener.
    There is some sort of obsession with clarity which I don't agree with. It’s like we don’t trust people to be able to comprehend if the individual doesn't know exactly what to look or listen for.

    What can we look forward to?
    I’m working on my next release at the moment. It feels very exciting, there are a lot of songs that are supposed to get down to at least half. I’m trying to make the theme both clear and diffuse. There might even be a song out quite soon who knows..

          top Stina Rand 
          trousers Remake 
      shoes Tamaris
    jacket Tara Byakko/The Swedish School of Textiles
    trousers Lisa Helena Jacobsson
    top Hope
    trousers ADNYM
    dress Märta Wallgren/The Swedish School of Textiles
    jacket Minna Palmqvist 
    trousers Victoria Chan 
    jacket Remake

    Written by Yasmine

    Last-minute gift buying can be tricky, but we have gathered some great options that will make someone really happy this Christmas. The gifts that will keep on giving; not only for Christmas, but throughout 2023.

    Apple Watch Series 8 TECH
    If you want to make someone happy this year (or yourself), go all in with the new Apple Watch Series 8. The watch is not only a great gift for the tech enthusiast, but someone you know that need help to keep track of their daily adventures. The latest smartwatch series combines a new better women’s health tracker with wrist temperature, as well as readings for an estimation of your menscycle. If you track your health when you are healthy, it can hopefully help to give an alert when perhaps something isn’t as it should be. Find the new Apple Watch at apple.com

    Classic Retro-X® Fleece Jacket, Patagonia FASHION
    Patagonia has always been at the forefront when it comes to quality clothing and thinking about more than just the clothes themselves. The best part about gifting a fleece jacket like this - is that with great care – will be a lifelong piece in someone's life. A warm and windproof 100% polyester bonded ¼”-pile fleece jacket for cool, blustery weather. With Fair Trade Certified™ sewn, choose if you buy it in a women’s or men’s silhouette. I know I would be happy. Find it at patagonia.com

    The Walking Pad, C2  SPORT
    Yes, I said it, a walking pad. Living in Scandinavia during the winter makes it a bit more difficult to get outside for a daily run. If you know someone who continues to work from home or studies full-time. This is a generous and most likely surprising gift. That will make the entire family want to try walking on the pad. The Pad comes in a variety of colors and levels – to fit the person you give it to. If you want a more advanced running pad or a calm and slim design to fit under your desk. It’s easy and breezy. Find it at amazon or at walkingpad.com 

    Weight blanket, Cura of Sweden SLEEP
    A weighted blanket is a perfect gift for someone you can’t give a physical hug to this holiday. Not to mention, if you know someone that struggles with sleep or mild anxiety. The soft blanket feels literally like a warm hug, that gives a sense of calm when you need it the most. The 6 kg weight fits perfect to have both on the sofa and in bed. It will definitely keep the person you give it too extra warm this season. Not to mention, why not grab a pillow too, Cura of Sweden also has an immense variety of ergonomic pillows, to help with sleep. Find the new hug at curaofsweden.com.

    Gordon Shaving Beard Straightener MEN'S FAVORITE
    The Gordon Beard straighter is going viral. The stylish brush helps to give a well-groomed and smooth finish straight from home - perfect for Holidays' and New Year’s celebrations. With its luxurious gift box, is a great gift to give. It’s super easy to use, with its minimalistic design and a stylish dark green handle. The brand repped by Underclub has a variety of great gifts. From freshly scented beard creams and beard oils – so if you need some great beard products you should check out their line. Find it at underclub or at the nearest retailer.

    Theragun PRO, Therabody SPORT
    For the wellness mode, the Therabody is the crème de la crème of pressure tools. Use it for a more efficient warm-up, target your quads, hamstrings, and calves with the Theragun for 15 seconds each. The Therabody increases circulation and generates heat in the fast twitch muscles that support quick bursts of lateral movement, as well as the muscle groups that support your stride. To help maximize recovery and come back even stronger. It’s a perfect tool to give (or get) when starting out your new year or help with back aches. The Theragun is ready to come home at therabody.com

    Reversible Wool-Blend Scarf, Polo Ralph Lauren FASHION
    Crafted from a soft wool blend, this Italian-made scarf features a complementary reverse. The scarf has two sides, which makes it perfect to switch when your outfit is slightly different. So instead of having two blue scarves in different shades – one is enough. The blue calm colors have the Ralph Lauren signature Pony embroidered at one end. If bought in-store or online at Ralph Lauren, you receive a gift box and card to write a holiday message. Find the wool-blend scarf at ralphlauren.eu


    Say hello to new memories, with the latest family member from Fujifilm Instax. This gift works for everyone – literally (and will especially be loved by the creative soul). The portable printer is more than just a normal printer. It’s your new favorite portable tool to save your memories for years to come. It makes it possible to bring life to your Smartphone photos as they were taken with an analog camera. For Gen Z and creative wizards, the new Instax square link also gives you endless opportunities to create AR effects and personalize prints. It’s definitely a new favorite to bring to the Christmas party. Find the new Instax Square Link at your nearest retailer or at instax.com

    SKOG 3-Wick Scented Vase Candle, Skandinavisk HOME 
    Give someone the beautiful scent of forest this season. Skog [’skuːg] is Swedish/Norwegian for ‘forest’, and smells like the actual forest. It’s a celebration of our Scandinavian boreal forests that cover over half the Scandinavian lands. The beautiful design fits right in every household with a vase glass, with three wicks and hard box packaging – perfect for gifting (or yourself). Find the candle at your nearest retailer or at skandinavisk.com


    Balmain Homme Signature Men’s Giftset BEAUTY
    The luxury fashion house, has a hair care series – one of them the Signature Men’s Giftset - a collection of grooming products made for men. The scent of for example the Beard Oil - is a woody, yet fresh bergamot. The set includes a Hair & Body Wash, Beard Oil, a small transparent Beard Comb, and Scalp Scrub. We wrote about many different beauty kits earlier, find them all here

    CHLOE, Woody woven tote bag FASHION
    The dark green, musty woody linen and leather tote bag from Chloe is a fashion statement. The bag has an open top, with double top handles and an internal slip pocket for necessities. With the brand patch on both sides. The bag is ready for city adventures, as well as a day in the woods – all up to the person you gift it too. They will be happy, promise. Find the tote bag at Selfridges.com


    Cloud & Glow Silk pillowcase BEAUTY/SLEEP
    Together with a new ergonomic pillow from Cura of Sweden, a pillowcase can enhance both your sleep and hair. So, my last piece of advice is to give a luxurious silk pillowcase this Christmas. The Cloud & Glow Silk pillowcase is made from the highest quality 22 momme 6A grade 100% mulberry silk, and you can definitely feel it. It’s love at first touch. It helps your skin and hair to retain natural moisture and reduces the appearance of facial creases from sleeping on your face. In addition, prevents any tangles and frizz from your hair. All, so you can stay comfortable, and have sweet dreams. Find the pillowcase at cloudandglow.com

    Want even more advice? Check out what the editors of Odalisque Magazine wish for christmas here