photography Alex Canu |
Solstice, in Conversation with Valerj Pobega
Written by Josie McNeill by Sandra MyhrbergVALERJ POBEGA HAS NEVER BEEN A TYPICAL DESIGNER; SHE’S ALWAYS VIEWED HERSELF AS MORE OF AN ARTIST.
“MY COLLECTIONS ARE ENTIRELY DESIGNED, CUT, SEWN, AND THEIR FABRICS HAND -PAINTED BY ME IN NUMBERED LIMITED EDITIONS, CROSSING THAT FINE LINE OF WHAT IS USUALLY CONSIDEREDART OR FASHION,” SAYS POBEGA.The Italian avant-garde designer’s works are edgy, in-your-face, and at times futuristic. Her designs are not meant to just be worn but show- cased. The Los Angeles County Museum of Art even obtained two of her hand-painted gowns for its permanent collection. Her pieces are often accompanied by innovative photo campaigns, videos and theatre performances.
Pobega’s designs have been featured on the cover of coveted fashion magazines such as Vogue, and most recently, CR25: Love and Fantasies, the CR Fashion Book’s 25th issue released on October 28th. In this edition, Angelina Jolie wears a silk kimono handpainted with stars and a poem by Pobega Herself.
Pobega’s unique approach to fashion can be traced back to her unusual roots in the industry. She grew up with two artist parents and first tasted the fashion industry through modelling. While pursuing this path, Pobega attended art school instead of fashion school for the level of freedom and self-expression it offered her. Pobega chose this background because she wanted to be able to create her own rules in fashion design.
She is almost fully self-taught with the help of the occasional patternmak- ing class to learn the basics of garment construction. This lack of formal training allowed Pobega to truly forge her own path and cement her own style in the fashion world.DESIGNING FOR HER MUSES
Her unorthodox fashion background, and consequently out-of-the-box designs, have caught the attention of eccentric celebrities such as Madonna, Lady Gaga, Billy Corgan of The Smashing Pumpkins and most recently Angelina Jolie. Pobega called designing for these celebrities a “full circle magical” moment.
“Posters of Madonna are still hanging in my teenage bedroom at my parents' home in Italy,” says Pobega. “Fast forward to decades later, and I’m working on two custom dresses for a music video for Madonna, followed by another custom dress that was requested to wear during one of her live awards ceremony performances.”
The dress Pobega is referencing is the one Madonna wears in her iHeart- Radio Music Awards performance of her single “Ghosttown.” The outfit consists of a black corset and garters, a white button-down shirt and bloomers-style black lace shorts styled with Pobega’s red silk dress. The design meshes Madonna’s Western burlesque aesthetic for her Rebel Heart album with Pobega’s punk style.
Pobega’s dedication to her craft is highlighted with these intricate, special request designs for celebrities. The behind-the-scenes work involved in these projects is often chaotic and goes unseen, according to Pobega. One of these last-minute moments occurred with her design of Lady Gaga’s dress on American Horror Story–Pobega was finishing hand-painting the sleeves the day the show was scheduled to film.
“At 2:00 in the morning, I was still drying a sleeve with a hairdryer because they were coming to pick it up at 6:00 in the morning,” she recalls. “That dress ended up becoming so iconic on the show, and Lady Gaga told Rolling Stone magazine that it was one of her two favourite dresses to wear on the show.”Pobega designs artistic pieces for her eponymous label that are paradoxi- cally timeless and avant-garde, all while drawing inspiration from music and poetry. She refers to these sources as “the two creative forces behind what has always inspired me as a person, artist and in my work.”
One genre that is particularly inspiring to Pobega is rock. The first record she ever bought was Nevermind the Bollocks by the Sex Pistols. Pobega also cites Siouxsie and the Banshees, The Cure, and Bauhaus as formative to her process, but her number one muse has always been David Bowie.
“Him and his music inspired me to go for it for myself, to take chances (not to mention that my hair has been coloured in different shades of red since I was 13 years old because of him),” says the designer.
Pobega often draws inspiration from music for the designs of her collec- tions and their names. For example, her collection “Your Pretty Face Is Going to Hell” is named after a song by Iggy Pop and The Stooges, and her collection “Hero” pays tribute to David Bowie.
“I put it together soon after he died,” Pobega said. “I scraped away what I was currently working on, as I felt it was the least I could do to honor someone who has been such a trailblazing force in my entire life and also for generations of so many people and other artists.”
Pobega said she handpainted lyrics from “Heroes” on one gown in the collection and golden spiders from Mars on another garment in reference to the late singer’s album, and also his alter ego, Ziggy Stardust and the Spiders from Mars.
The trait that Pobega most clearly draws from Bowie is his fearlessness. Bowie was a pioneer in fashion with his unapologetic, gender-fluid outfits, and Pobega channels the same energy in her innovative designs.
Another characteristic that Pobega shares with Bowie is her emphasis on storytelling. Similar to how Bowie creates different alter egos for his albums, Pobega imagines concepts for her collections. She draws from specific art and cultural references for each collection and then reflects these themes in the design of each garment.
“It has never been just about the clothes for me. I’ve always been a storyteller, so it always makes sense to create a whole world around each collection, and not just the clothes that are part of it,” Pobega said.
Pobega says she has been working on her dream project for the past three years. She mentions that she has a couple of projects in the works now and is currently deciding which world to unveil first. “It will tie even more of the disciplines of my artist self, the writing and directing parts, while creating even more worlds through storytelling, all taken to the next level.”collaboration Wendy x Valerj
text Josie McNeil
photography and model Wendy Bevan.
all clothing Valerj
Photography Mikael Johansson VOLIÀ Atelier: Redefining Pre-Loved Fashion with Scandinavian Elegance and French Chic
Written by Ulrika LindqvistSisters Sandra and Johanna, the founders of VOLIÀ Atelier, have embarked on a journey to transform the pre-loved fashion industry. Rooted in a shared passion for sustainability, authenticity, and empowerment, their brand merges Scandinavian minimalism with the timeless allure of French chic. In this exclusive interview, they share their inspirations, the challenges of building a business as siblings, and their vision for a more sustainable fashion future.
Ulrika Lindqvist: Can you share how VOLIÀ Atelier came to life and where the journey began?
Sandra & Johanna:Growing up in an environment where our parents encouraged us to explore, experiment, and embrace our creativity, we were given the freedom to try new things without limitations. This is something we have carried with us throughout our life. We always knew we wanted to create something meaningful, something bigger - just as we dreamed of when we were little. We have both always chosen our own paths, driven by a deep sense of freedom and independence.
When we were children, we often dressed up and had little photo shoots - something we loved doing. We both had a special love for style and have expressed ourselves through fashion our whole lives. Our grandmother, who unfortunately passed away before we were born, loved fashion and was always dressed up wherever she went. Our mother tells us that we got our love for fashion from her.
As we grew older, we became more interested in sourcing vintage pieces, and after years of searching in these often not so luxurious stores, frustration grew. We felt they lacked both style and exclusivity, and we started to notice a gap in the market. We also noticed that our friends had a hard time finding pieces in these stores and chose to purchase newly produced clothes instead. We recognized the immense potential in the pre-loved market and believe that circular fashion plays a crucial role in creating a more sustainable fashion industry. We wanted to make pre-loved fashion attractive to the modern customer by redefining it as something exclusive and chic. And that is where VOLIÀ Atelier started to take form.
UL: What inspired you to establish VOLIÀ Atelier, and how does your background play a role in its identity?
S & J: Although we grew up in the same environment as sisters, we have chosen different professional paths. Sandra has a background in real estate and finance, while Johanna has a background in PR, art and fashion. Combining our expertise has been one of our greatest strengths in our journey as business owners.
With our Scandinavian roots, sustainability has always been a core value for us. After studying and working in the fashion industry, we became increasingly aware of the industry’s need for improvement, especially in terms of sustainability.
Our upbringing in Sweden and the time we spent in France has been the most inspiring. We both share a similar sense of style and love the combination between Scandinavian elegance and the French chic style. We are inspired by classic French style icons, such as the effortlessly Françoise Hardy and the free-spirited Brigitte Bardot. The combination of Scandinavian style with the French chic was something we could not find in vintage stores. We instantly agreed that this would be the niche for our business.
Our brand is a true reflection of who we are, capturing the essence of our personalities and making it authentic and personal. VOLIÀ Atelier is where our free spirit meets warmth and exclusivity with a refined elegance.
UL: How would you describe the experience of working alongside your sister in building VOLIÀ Atelier?
S & J: We are each other's greatest source of inspiration and support, constantly encouraging one another. We complement each other perfectly and are deeply grateful to have each other on this journey. Growing up and experiencing life together has given us a deep understanding of one another. Our sisterhood is a huge advantage and a valuable asset in building our brand. We communicate effortlessly, and at times, it feels as though we can read each other's minds.
Although there is a two-year age difference between us, with Sandra being 26 and Johanna 24, many people still mistake us for twins due to our similar appearance and close bond. While we share many similarities, we also embrace our differences. With our unique experiences and personal traits, we naturally gravitated toward different roles within the business. Sandra, with her strategic and business-minded approach, took on the more analytical tasks, while Johanna, with her creative and innovative spirit, focused on the visual and artistic aspects. Growing up, Sandra was always the strategic planner and fixer, while Johanna was always doing something creative. We leverage our strengths rather than try to fix our weaknesses, which has been one of our greatest assets.
Sisterhood is built on empowering and supporting each other. Encouraging each other to grow and evolve, becoming more fully who we are. We bring this spirit into VOLIÀ Atelier with the hope of inspiring our customers to be empowered through our clothes. We want to inspire other women to become the women they aspire to be.
UL: What are the three core values that define VOLIÀ Atelier and its vision?
S & J: The core values that define VOLIÀ Atelier are sustainability, authenticity, and empowerment. We believe in a circular fashion system that maximizes existing resources, creating a more sustainable future for the industry. With today's short-lived trend cycles and the dominance of fast fashion, we champion the art of slowing down and encouraging thoughtful consumption. Fashion should be intentional, and by carefully curating pre-loved pieces, we offer our customers a chance to embrace sustainability without compromising style. Our approach promotes a circular business model, where every piece at VOLIÀ Atelier is pre-loved.
Authenticity is at the heart of everything we do. We are committed to being genuine and warm in our approach, building a brand that reflects our true selves. We pour our hearts into everything we create, ensuring that each piece is meaningful and true to our values.
We also aim to empower our customers to embrace their style with courage and express themselves through VOLIÀ Atelier. From personal experiences, we know how clothing can transform not only your appearance but also your sense of self-worth, giving you the confidence to express your inner self. We believe that when you feel good in what you wear, it elevates your self-esteem and empowers you, reflecting in every aspect of your life. By wearing VOLIÀ Atelier, we hope to give you this empowerment.
UL: Could you walk us through the creative process behind your latest collection?
S & J: Our latest collection, the Runway Collection, was presented in Paris this November. With a vision to redefine pre-loved and make it feel exclusive, we dreamed of bringing pre-loved pieces to the runway. We could never have imagined how quickly this dream would come to life, and we are beyond grateful for this incredible milestone in our journey.
The creative process behind the collection began with a vision to create a new take on the timeless elegance, infusing bold elements to make it a statement. It is a fusion of unexpected details, elegant sculptural silhouettes, and timeless design. It is where softness meets strength. The color palette flows seamlessly - from the serene purity of white and delicate blush pinks to the bold intensity of fuchsia and burgundy, before deepening into the rich depths of black. This palette sets the tone for a collection that is both romantic and powerful, evoking a sense of deep femininity and individuality. Each piece is curated to make a statement - whether through intricate details like feathers and lace, or rich colors and sculpted silhouettes. Equally daring are the accessories, featuring eye-catching jewelry, belts, and gloves that complete the look with a touch of glamour. It is a love letter to every woman.
Everything we showcased on the runway is pre-loved and curated with love, where each piece is unique and limited in quantity, making every piece one-of-a-kind. Each item in the collection has been carefully curated and undergone a thoughtful process to demonstrate that sustainable fashion and exclusivity can go hand in hand. Our vision is to set a new standard for what pre-loved fashion can be, making it appealing to the style-conscious consumer.
UL: How would you describe the ideal VOLIÀ Atelier customer?
S & J: The VOLIÀ Atelier customer is passionate about fashion and the art of self-expression through clothing. It is someone who seeks to invest in unique pieces and build a sustainable capsule wardrobe, valuing quality over quantity. Who invest in both themselves and their wardrobe. This conscious and fashion forward customer appreciates exclusivity and may have struggled to find the perfect pre-loved pieces in vintage stores.
What have been the biggest challenges you’ve faced in founding and growing VOLIÀ Atelier?
Neither of us had experience in building a business, and therefore we have had to learn everything along the way. Our passion and dedication have been key drivers throughout this process. While we have faced numerous challenges, we have also gained invaluable knowledge and are grateful for every lesson. Our ability to take risks and dive in has been a significant advantage as business owners. Starting out is often the hardest part; after that, things tend to fall into place as you go.
We are committed to growing organically and sustainably, which can make it difficult to reach new customers in a world that rewards fast fashion and excessive growth. The foundation of our business is based on organic growth and building a genuine community based on trust. Therefore, we allow this process to unfold at its own pace, nurturing it with love and care as we grow.
At this stage, we manage everything ourselves, which is both challenging and rewarding. Having full control over the creative process and the freedom to make decisions is as overwhelming as it is empowering. For our launch shoot, we decided to travel to the South of France, where we handled every detail ourselves - from planning and preparing to modeling and marketing. During our launch shoot in France, we had our father with us, who is a photographer and helped us capture the essence of VOLIÀ Atelier. We are grateful for the knowledge we gained in building a business on our own, from learning to code to social media marketing.
UL: Can you share a standout moment or memory from your debut show that will stay with you forever?
S & J: One of the standout moments from our debut show that will stay with us forever was witnessing our vision come to life. To see all our hard work come together was an incredibly emotional experience. The love and support from the audience and participants was beautiful, reminding us why we do this in the first place.
We received heartfelt responses from the fashion show, with lovely congratulations from guests, including the press, influencers, models, and other participants. The feedback was overwhelmingly positive, especially regarding the fact that all our pieces were pre-loved. Many were astonished at how pre-loved clothes could look just as stylish and fashionable as high-end designer pieces. That reaction truly validated our mission to redefine pre-loved fashion as something chic and desirable.
UL: What are your future plans and aspirations for VOLIÀ Atelier?
S & J: We are thrilled that VOLIÀ Atelier has been so warmly received since our launch in October, and we are excited to continue this journey. While we are still in the early stages, we are looking forward to launching new collections and further developing our brand.
One goal is to expand our market globally. Currently, we sell through our online store, offering shipping within Europe. We aspire to extend our reach with worldwide shipping while ensuring that our growth remains organic and stays true to our core values and purpose.
We are also focused on building a strong, engaged community and are already planning future events in Stockholm, where we are based, to bring our VOLIÀ Atelier-community together. Another exciting opportunity we are exploring is the possibility of opening a showroom or hosting pop-up events in Stockholm, Paris, and other locations in France.
Another dream is to establish an office in Stockholm and hire a talented team to help bring our vision to life. Our journey for VOLIÀ Atelier has only just begun, and we are so grateful and excited to see what the future holds.
Photography Johanna Nygren Johansson